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Stripped AR lower and parts kit recommendations

4K views 38 replies 17 participants last post by  funjunky 
#1 ·
I'm going to build my first AR lower that'll be home to a BCM 20". Looking for recommendations for quality lowers and parts kits. I don't want to spend more than I need too, the only reason I'm doing this is to save money instead of buying a complete bcm lower. I just need a workhorse for classes, defence, competition etc..

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#33 ·
People talk "quality", "Mil Spec" and other terms, but no one has actually taken the various parts and compared them beyond anecdotal evidence.
Because you have not personally seen the comparisons does not mean they are not out there.

"Anecdotally," I've personally seen 7 Anderson lowers whose holes have been out of spec, meaning they would not mate up with actual in-spec uppers.
 
#34 ·
Because you have not personally seen the comparisons does not mean they are not out there.
If they are out there...show us.


"Anecdotally," I've personally seen 7 Anderson lowers whose holes have been out of spec, meaning they would not mate up with actual in-spec uppers.
In-spec vs Milspec is meaningless, just as "milspec" without inspection is meaningless.;)

Did they replace the bad parts? Then it's all good.:thumb:
 
#35 ·
If they are out there...show us.
Not my info to share. There is a reason certain processes and materials are deemed "acceptable." There is a reason the TDP exists. If you believe for one second that the requirements of the TDP were randomly selected, and mean nothing, I don't know what to say. Does that mean the TDP is the apex of quality? Not in the slightest. If anything, it should be considered the minimum. Anderson consistently puts out products that don't even meet that low standard.




In-spec vs Milspec is meaningless, just as "milspec" without inspection is meaningless.;)

Did they replace the bad parts? Then it's all good.:thumb:
In-spec, and milspec are two completely different terms. Unless something specifically adheres to the TDP, it, by definition cannot be a milspec rifle. Regardless of what the manufacturer might say in their literature. The only guns in the US that actually meet the TDP, and are in civilian hands, say "Colt" on the side. The only rifles that meet the TDP in all respects, except for the select fire option, and that are in civilian hands...also all say "Colt" on the side.

In-spec merely means all the holes and parts are where they are supposed to be. That the gas port is the right size, that the gas key is correctly staked, that the castle nut is staked in two spots, etc. Basically, the open-source data points that are known about the TDP.

Any company that actually manufactures a consistently in-spec rifle actually does inspect them. Individually. Amazingly, you almost never hear about having to send one of those rifles back. Those companies that consistently produce out of spec parts, the opposite is true.

It's the buyer's money, and only the buyer knows why they want the rifle, so it's on them to buy accordingly. If it's a "just because" gun that will rarely be fired, or if it is going to be a safe queen, it doesn't matter what you buy. If you want to abuse it a bit, that cheaper "just as good as" never will be.
 
#13 ·
I've done one build with a PSA complete lower, and another with one of their uppers, and both went as well as a person could want. If you're not inclined to spend $150ish on a trigger, the extra few bucks for one of PSA's "EPT" lowers is a cheap upgrade. I went with one of their MOE EPT lowers for around $160 shipped, and the blems are even less. While not as good as a name-brand trigger (JP, as a point of personal comparison) they are better than some of the supposedly mil-spec triggers in complete rifles I've bought. Of course, if you don't care about the MOE furniture, $129 gets you a lower that is more or less equivalent to what you'd get from S&W, Ruger, etc.
 
#27 ·
PSA

One of the cheapest and best upgrades in my opinion is psa's enhanced fire control group. You can buy this alone or with their enhanced lower parts kit. Night and day. Unless your shooting match I see absolutely no need to spend anymore on a trigger. Get really fancy and add one of JP's spring kits for $9. As far as the lowers Anderson is good to go but more people than myself have noticed slightly looser tolerances than some others. Any slop can be remedied with a wedge but fot my money Aero is what I'll buy for my money and you can catch them on sale slightly hire than Anderson. They have a built in tensioning screw - which I habe never needed. They build or built Spikes and many others, at one point PSA. They also own ballistic advantage barrels now, another stellar value. I'm personally not paying $40-50 more for a spider or zombie engraved on my lower.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Good Morning,

I've built several (8 so far) using PSA parts and I have no complaints. I'm actually doing some spring cleaning right now. I'm trying to get rid of a complete PSA / Magpul Lower. I also have a lower receiver and all the parts necessary to build it into a pistol lower I just decided to abandon the build. I also have a fixed MOE stock that was bought and never used laying around.

That being said, my personal "good" rifle is a BCM. You can get an OEM version from Brownells for $1,000 and add whatever furniture you want to it.
http://www.brownells.com/firearms/r...id-length-lightweight-16-rifle-prod84913.aspx

The fancy triggers are great but the factory triggers will be a lot easier to replace in failure in a SHTF situation (in my opinion).

I keep 2 complete lower build kits (controls and springs), and extra Bolt carrier , 2 extra bolts and an extra buffer spring for my primary rifles.

Most of the lower receivers I've come across are all pretty decent. I would definitely stay away from polymer lowers if I were you.

As some of the others have said, you really don't save much by building the rifle yourself if you are going basic rifle. You save the money when you start customizing it or if you an wait long enough to shop sales (I never can).

If you do decide to build your own rifle here are some quick pointers:
- get a torque wrench and apply proper torque
- be sure to add high temperature grease where the barrel seats in the upper receiver
- get a good ar15 wrench. I like the DPMS wrench. Stay away from the cheap $30 Amazon ones, they won't work / out of spec
- get a good set of punches from a hardware store other than Harbour Freight.
- Wrap the tools in electrical or masking tape to keep from scratching the rifle
- add loctite to the gas block screws
- don't skimp on a rail if you go that route. The $50 ones from Ebay look the same but are not the same quality as a Midwest Industries / Spikes / Noveske / DD etc.... The cheap ones are a nightmare to thread properly and are heavy
- Don't get hung up on the "specs" of the parts. You will go nuts if you do. PSA sells great products and I haven't seen much "junk" on their site. Buy parts from reputable brands and you will be fine. If you would like a list of my top picks PM me.

Good Luck with the build and PM if you need help
 
#36 ·
Does anyone else run a 20" as their go to? Now in the great barrel length debate...
Depends on what your "go to" scenario is. I do have one, a 20" 1:9 twist, scoped with a bipod. The furthest I've had opportunity to shoot out to is 300 yards, but that's irrelevant in any plausible defensive situation for me, because my longest unobstructed shot defending my own home (that is to say not camped out in the middle of the road) is within 100 yards. The likelihood of such an encounter would be incredibly remote, so I'd be more inclined to plan around the more indoor-friendly 16" barrel with a CQ-oriented optic, which would be quite capable for any defensive purposes on or around my property. I could also choose from a wider range of ammo, as many (not all) types are more likely to perform adequately at closer ranges rather than longer.

However, that is my situation. If I was monitoring a stretch of perimeter or approach(es) from a fixed position, I'd go with the 20" barrel, the best ammo available for the distances involved, and a scope that would allow me to make the most of the gun and ammo. Most .223/5.56 ammo I'm familiar with is advertised with specs based on a 20" barrel unless otherwise stated - "regular" Federal Fusion 62gr vs. Fusion MSR 62gr, for instance - and there are plenty of ammo options available that are proven to have superior ballistic attributes at longer distances if you have the gun suited to such shots.
 
#37 ·
20"

I have a set-up similar to Inazone.

I live on the very top of a hill and have almost a 360 degree view. I can see for hundreds of yards in 3 directions so I have a AR-10 chambered in .308 with a 20" barrel that can be used to reach out and touch something.

For in the house and closer I've found that the 16" barrel on my carbine works well.

I'm also 6' 6", 300lbs so lugging a heavy 20" .308 isn't a big deal and when in the house I need something that takes up little space since I occupy more than my fair share ;).

Thats my set up.

If you want to stick with a single caliber then why not get both? Get a single lower and 2 uppers? One at 16" and another at 20"

Crap, looks like I just talked myself into a new build :)
 
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