depends on some factors: kind of steel, HRC (hardness of steel), what you are using it for, and what tools you have to sharpen it with (also think of what tools you will have with you in the field if you need to sharpen it there).
I use Japanese Waterstones then a strop, bit expencive but by far the best results I've ever had.
I only tend to use 800 and 6000 grit, if I need that bit extra I use a 1200 in the middle. I have used a friends 240 grit (as I don't have one) to reprofile a knife and its amazingly quick, just eats metal.
If I'm sharpening a SAK in the field I used a DC4.
edge pro s a great system for perfect edges if you dont want to learn the skill; but i would highly recomend practicing freehand, its not as hard as it seems.
Don't forget convex sharpening. One of the cheapest yet most effective ways of sharpening a blade (depending on what you're using it for).
For the cost of an old mousepad or cardboard notepad back and 5 bucks worth of wet/dry sandpaper you can get knives VERY sharp. If you want to go further, a little green compound or 3 m sharpening film will make it scary sharp.
About half my knives are convex sharpened, about half are 'traditionally' done (and one scandi). It depends on the knife and what i'm going to use it for.
Here's a little intro into convex sharpening - I really like it for pocket knives. Razor sharp but holds the edge a little longer.
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