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Keeping and breeding rabbits for meat.

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rabbits
5K views 16 replies 15 participants last post by  rncmomx2 
#1 ·
I am getting ready to start raising rabbits next month. Does anyone have any ideas or tips for me? I am especially interested in any advice on tanning the skins.
 
#2 ·
There are many different types of rabbits, some are bred for their meat properties.
These breads are used in the catering industry, the belgium breed if my memeory serves me, is one of the most popular breeds for meat quality.

Their skins/fur maybe usefull for warm clothing items in your cold winters but not sure on this one as it is not of commercial importance in my country.

However felt is made from rabbit fur, but the process can be quite complicated.

Apart from the advice from forum members, maybe some research on the net or other breeders maybe of assistance.
 
#3 ·
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#4 ·
From the Oracle that is CD3WD:

http://www.cd3wd.com/CD3WD_40/CD3WD/AGRIC/FB36RE/EN/B101.HTM

http://www.cd3wd.com/CD3WD_40/CD3WD/AGRIC/FB37RE/EN/B102.HTM

Once the skin is off the Rabbit you will need to de-flesh it, maybe with a bit of pre-soaking but it can start to smell after soaking for a day or two!! Never did one myself but IIRC I`m sure my Uncle used to boil/mash the brain with a little water and work this into the inside of the hide.

De-fleshing is a laborious and smelly process, but worth it when you have a nice soft, supple & warm Rabbitskin you can make into Quivers/Bags/Water bottle covers/or even hats/gloves (I prefer Mink for them though!!)
 
#6 ·
Raising rabbits is easy. First find a place that is shaded from the hot afternoon sun. It would be really great if there were a breeze going in the afternoon too. Rabbits can die from the heat. Heat is one of the big killers of rabbits.

Each rabbit should have it's own cage. They should have protection from the cold north wind and rain. So It should a roofed area and the north side protected from the wind.

I like the cage to be made of wire. I burn it out every year to get ride of germs and hair.

They need a feeder with a screened bottom. Rabbits can develope lung problems if they breath in the dust from their food pellets. They need to have access to clean water at all times. A salt round gives them needed minerals and keeps their teeth worn down.

Start off with one doe (female) and one buck (male). I raised New Zeland Giants and Californians. Go with what is available in your area.

Take your doe to the bucks cage. A doe will defend her territory if you put the buck in her cage. They could both get hurt in that meeting. Leave the doe in the bucks' cage over night. Then place the doe back in her own cage.

A rabbits gestation period is 30 days. A week before the doe kindles, put a nesting box in her cage. A couple of days before she has her litter she will pull the hair from under her chin to line the nest with. Don't worry if she waits until she goes into labor to do this. If the rabbit is new at birthing, she may not go by the book.

The day after she has her babies, you need to check the box and take out any dead babies. Handle the babies as little as possible. Do this quickly, you don't want to disturbe the mother anymore then you have to.

At 6 weeks remove the babies to a larger cage to finish growing. At 8 weeks you want to butcher what you don't want to keep. Do not interbreed your rabbits.

If your doe doesn't take care of her first litter, clean out her cage and 30 days later rebreed her to your buck. If she fails to take care of the 2nd litter, eat her.

Rabbit manuer is good in the garden and good to start a worm bed with. Worms that are raised can help suppliment the chicken feed. The chickens will really love you for that. Worms in the garden really help the garden grow good too.

Good luck.

I
 
#7 ·
Had an old boy at the leather shop talk to me about tanning rabbit furs not too long ago. He said once you flesh it, do it again, can't remember exactly what he called it, but it had something to do with there being another film of flesh underneath. Hope that helps a little.
 
#8 ·
I feel weird recommending someone I don't know, but... try sending your question to the user RosesInWinter. She has made quite a few posts that pertain to raising/breeding/eating rabbits. She might have some experience or advice that could help you.
 
#13 ·
I have 14 baby bunnies out of two does.

Of course, maiden does that they were, they waited for the day it started to snow and built their nests at the very front of their nestboxes.

SNOW was landing on one litter!!!

Into the dining room they came...... All 16 of them.

Since then it warmed back up and my husband evicted them to newer, larger cages. All the babies lived and are almost 5 weeks old now.

They are VERY cute and will taste VERY good.
 
#14 ·
Normally, I would butcher at 12 weeks, but because I want the hides, I will butcher at 16 weeks so that the skin is thicker.

Babies will be weaned around 6 weeks, and I will rebreed then (you can actually rebreed two weeks after the does have given birth). This way, I should have a crop every 6 weeks with the ability to step up production whenever I need to.

Bunny berries (poop) are immediately useable in the garden, no composting needed. And if you want worms no worries - "build it and they will come" - the worms will just show up.
 
#17 ·
Been raising rabbits fora while now, there is alot of info on the web. When you feed make sure there is no animal fat preserved with Ethoquin (?spelling?). Animal fats in rabbit feeds are commonly animals that have been uthanized and you don't want that in your food (what the rabbits eats you end up eating). I feed natural/organic grains and hay-must do good I have sold $400.00 worth of rabbits in 5 days to sellers from 4 states (some drove 8 hours to buy them and will be/are repeat buyers).
 
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