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Shipping container bunker

8K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  IamZeke 
#1 ·
I am new to the forum and this may be in the wrong forum. If so, mods, feel free to move it. I know there is a ton of discussion on burying shipping containers to use as storage and shelters for SHTF situations. I have read endless threads and articles on the pros and cons of doing so. So, before you make any assumptions or post advice please read my situation and then advise.

I am not an engineer but I do work in the commercial and industrial construction industry and have welding, equipment operation, and general construction skills and I have access to all the tools and equipment I would need to complete this project. I have come up with a bracing design for using a 20' x 8' shipping container as a bunker. It would not be completely buried but buried in the side of a hill with walk up access to the front doors. My plan is as follows.
-Buy a shipping container in very good shape and make sure it is watertight.
-Paint the outside with either a thick paint or tar.
-Build the internal frame as detailed in the drawing below (I'm also not an architect so my drawing is not great, but you get the general idea). The frame would be welded together but not welded to the container itself to allow for some movement without tearing holes in the container skin.
-Excavate the hole just large enough to fit container in. The pad will be sloped slightly downhill to encourage drainage away from the container.
-Put down a #57 stone gravel pad.
-Set the container in place.
-Install intake and exhaust vents with 12v fans.
-Backfill all around the container with #57 stone for proper drainage.
-Backfill on top of the container with #57 stone but leave enough space to fill the last foot or 2 with topsoil.
-Camouflage as necessary.

Ok, so now it's your turn to tear my plan apart and help me think through this. Yes, I've thought about just building a concrete bunker but I feel with the tools, equipment, and experience I have I could do this build much cheaper. Do you think the bracing is overkill, not enough, or just right?

 
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#2 ·
There's a lot of threads on this.

The general consensus is that burying a shipping container is a bad idea. There's only a few load bearing points on the container that allows them to be stacked. The areas in between (read: most of the surface area) can't support much weight at all.

There's a thread floating around of one guy who buried the container and then used ibeams and concrete to build a proper load bearing roof. Perhaps the search function would turn up something.
 
#4 ·
I've read the majority of the threads you refer to. Also, a ton of articles and watched videos. It seems to me the general consensus is if it's braced properly it can work very well. By building the inner frame I'm greatly increasing the load points and spreading the load more evenly over those points. I appreciate the advice though. I'm on about a 3k budget so I have to make that work somehow. I'm open to all suggestions.
 
#5 ·
You seem to have addressed the primary issue associate with them (strength). So, that said and recognizing that long term corrosion would be an issue, I PERSONALLY think it would work. For me I will likely use cinder block/concrete, as it will be more of a long term asset, even if it will cost twice your $ figure. That is just me,....additionally your idea has merit, just as any cheap/quick "what I can afford" idea has. Not ideal, but hey, it is BETTER THAN NOTHING. Additionally, I would use reclaimed rubber roofing (layered over top to shed ground moisture and LOTS and LOTS of gravel/pipe for drainage. The corrosion is likely the worst of the issues as your solution looks viable as to the strength. A quick solution is better than no solution. I would rather be in your 'tainer than DUCT TAPING my windows with plastic.........:(

I reread your post, it looks adequate, I would say ANY old corragated barn roofing, aluminum roofing, concrete decking, ANY THING that would help disperse the side load on the walls/roof is a PLUS. Additonally, compacting the rock (say #3) would also help LOCK the walls in place. Even old rail road ties that would be spaced for your internal supports (each end bearing on the junction and stacked just outside the exterior wall) would help.

Later you could always just build cinder block walls (pour them solid as you go), and then concrete decking on top with a layer of mesh/concrete pumps from above. You would lose some sq. footage but would give you short AND long term solutions as moneys became available.

There are 9' steel containers out there, AND aluminum ones as well (I have never seen one).
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the advice. I really like the railroad ties on the outside idea. That would help to take a lot of the pressure off the walls and put it on the internal supports. I agree that corrosion would be my main enemy. I'm thinking a complete tar coat on the exterior will help slow it down. I can't guess very well at a time frame but if this shelter could last me 15-20 years I think I would be in a better financial place to build a nicer concrete one.
 
#7 ·
Well, as stated in ADDITION to the tar on the actual steel, I would then do the ties, and drainage pipes, and crushed rock, THEN begin your fill by humping it creating a mound, then LAYER the rubber roofing in a "shingled" (lapping it LIKE roof shingles are from BOTTOM TO TOP so it would shed water) then continue your backfill/mounding. This would direct penetrated ground water AWAY from EVEN your piping. All of this would help with longevity/moisture issues.
 
#9 ·
When you get the rail ties you should look for the ones no one else wants (still structurally OK, but shaky/shattered. They should cost ZERO dollars. I go about 100-200 here from a local rail line. The guy sold the others for (not much, + trucking), and GAVE me all I wanted...... They are very HEAVY, and skidloader /forklift is a HUGE plus. Dont be afaid to ask landscape supply yards about FREE ones as many times they have to sort what comes in and they are hard to dispse of legally. Did I say they are HEAVY!
 
#11 ·
How about something like this:

http://www.dktanks.com/images/concrete_pipe/index.html

Shipping could get kinda pricey though...

I know there are sources corrugated steel pipe too, lighter and easier to handle...and ready to go in the ground. If you leave one end with walk in access you wouldn't have to do all the fabrication before you put in the ground, you could finish the interior as time and money permits. Wouldnt be difficult to build something comparable to what these guys sell:

http://atlassurvivalshelters.com/

They also prep containers for burial...check out what they do. If your in LA they will give you a tour of the factory and I'm sure you get some great ideas!
 
#12 ·
I dunno, There really aint much cheaper if you want it to last ANY amount of time. My one buddy landed a free 10' x 35' foot previously a acid tank liined with rubber (cleanable) and given it needed to be "properly" scrapped (read$$$) hee got it for free, they even mobilized a crane to set it off the trailer, now granted it was a friend of his with the crane.......your always u pagainst scrap prices for any sizable unit, so minimum 8-10' diameter is worth 1K minimum, likely 2-3K......Next step is block/concrete....$$$$ So, whats left???
 
#13 ·
I thought about block/concrete but I think that would be just as expensive by the time you're finished if not more. I like the concrete or corrugated culvert idea but shipping would be crazy and I would have to have a crane on site to move it into place. Still weighing the options. Maybe I should be asking this questions:

-Let's just say you have 5k to spend on a complete underground bunker project. What would you do? This will be side of a hill burial and not complete burial.
 
#14 ·
Maybe I'm a lone wolf on tbis thought, but I've always thought an underground bumker is a bad long term solution. For short stays, storms or passing groups, no problem. Long term, there are a lot of issues. Least of which is proper ventilation, and intake/exhaust security. Not to mention boredom and sanitation.
 
#18 ·
I saw an episode of Doosday Preppers a while back where a guy up in Canada buried a bunch of school buses...didn't see much in the way of additional interior bracing but it appeared that he had welded or somehow attached sheet metal where the glass had been. Although not a very elegant solution, it could be done within your budget...

You could tow or drive it into place, remove the wheels and set it on a perimeter footing made of railroad ties or salvaged concrete slab pieces laid with mortar, drape the whole thing in multiple layers of 6 mil Visqueen, add a layer of gravel for drainage, and cover. Put a layer of Visqueen and gravel underneath it, cut access hole(s) in the floor and use for storage.

You could conceivably get that far for $3-4k...then build out the interior as time/budget permits...YMMV :D:
 
#19 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys. Coloangus, I plan to use it more for secure prep storage, storm shelter, and last ditch effort of protection for women and children. Jojo, the dugout is definitely and option though I think it would be harder to make it secure against thiefs and vandals. Doc, thanks for the tip on the paint, if I go the container route I'll see if I can hunt some down. Iminocca, thanks for the school bus idea. I like the relative simplicity of it but the security against vandals is still questionable in my mind.
 
#20 ·
We are saving for a container cabin - I found this forum doing research. Ours will be above ground in the dog-trot style. A single 8x20 and 2 of the same size on the other side of a 12 ft porch, all covered by a single roof. It's a little crude - but this one was the original inspiration http://earthsci.org/education/fieldsk/container/container.html
 
#21 ·
Alot of you will already know about this shelter. It's called Ark 2 and was featured on DDPs in Season 1. Anyway on to my point. He primarily used school bus body's which according to the owner is economical and provides plenty of protection and can hold up to the load of being buried. Key benefits of using school buses was the roof shape being dome like and the sides of the buses being very strong to protect passengers in the even of a roll over.

After reading up on it I think that is what I will be using when I build my shelter. It may not be a bad thing to reconsider the use of shipping containers....

I just realized someone beat me to the school bus idea used in Ark 2. Sorry mate, did not mean to step on any toes.
 
#22 ·
I'm getting geared up to start my build and I can't make up my mind on one main aspect of it. I wanted to get you guy's opinion. I'll be using 4" channel for the main support structure with a 4" I-beam for the center support under the roof. The I beam is going inside the container under the roof with a support leg on each end. My question is should I put the remaining 4" channel support frame on the outside or inside of the container. During my research I've seen it done both ways. If I put it inside it takes up more room but you get the added benefit of using the walls for support for effectively. If I put it outside the container there is more room inside but the walls aren't supported as much by the support frame. Let me know what you think.
 
#23 ·
GLK : I am mid project on a very similar construct. My project has morphed quite a few times to now I have braced the inside of my container (40' Highboy) in a matter pretty similar to what you described with just a few more modifications. I used 6" I-Beams every 10 foot and crossed braced these 3" X 5" 1/4" angle all of this supported by 3" X 3" X 1/4" Square tubing. This structure also makes up the frames that bunk beds and internal shelving units can use for support. I have also welded 4" pieces of rebar to the outside of the container (The thing looks like a giant porcupine currently) that will serve to hold re-bar in a 1' X 1' grid on the exterior I plan to use 1/2" rebar on the sides and 3/4" rebar on the roof. The idea is to build a complete module that can just be dropped into the ground and encased in concrete.

We will dig a hole approximately 16' deep in which 12 footing will be poured around these footing - river stone and septic lateral lines will be used to create a reveres leach field under the unit that will be a water source for underground water storage tanks to supply water for the shelter and for use in the garden. Over the leach field on top of the footings a 6" reinforced concrete slab will be poured. Oh yea the hole will be as close to 18" larger than the container as possible so that concrete can be poured around the container and against undisturbed earth with an 8" to 10" concrete cap on the top. This will be covered and compacted with approx 3 feet of earth then covered with an additional 6" slab foundation for an out building that will cover the under ground facility. Inside that building I am building a reinforced block room that contains the primary entrance and all the associated mechanicals for the facility. That room will be secured with a vault door and that door will be hidden behind a piece of movable shelving.

In this scenario the shipping container is simply a giant form for the concrete (With substantial additional bracing). It also serves as a platform for us to pre-install the re-bar etc so that the container can be placed in the ground and poured with concrete as quickly as possible. The ground where I live is mostly clay and is less than stable -- leaving a hole this large open for any length of time just invites a cave-in -- if not for that fact I would have gone with traditional block construction -- but there is a reason they don't build basements here -- a block wall simply will not hold up in the clay soils.

The entire outside of the container will be sealed with a combination of roofing tar and Aluminiumized roof sealant to protect the outside of the container against corrosion from any water that may penetrate the encasing concrete. I also plan to use several sacrificial anodes on the container to slow any corrosion that may occur.

This is by no means a budget build however -- the entire project will likely cost around $60K and I acknowledge I probably could have bought a professionally installed shelter in this price range however mine will be built exactly how I want it and I must admit I wanted to see if I could do it myself. The container is nearly ready to go in the hole I think the last outstanding issue will be preventing the container from "floating" out of the ground when the concrete is poured. I have found a local contractor with extensive large utility construction experience that I have faith will be able to overcome any of my shortcomings in design (He has been very helpful to date in design of re-enforcing structures and insight into corrosion and ground water control issues).

I am not saying this is the best way to build a shelter however it is the way that I am doing it. From working with my container, trying to bury or encase in concrete an unmodified container would likely be a disaster. I seriously doubt that the roof and walls of an un-reinforced 40' container would survive being encased in concrete -- if you have ever walked on the roof of one you would know what I mean I think the weight of the wet concrete alone would likely collapse the entire thing. Once the concrete is cured things should be fine however with a 40 footer I think the some vertical bracing down the length is a requirement even if you could get the container to hold the weight of the wet concrete I know I feel better knowing there are 12 very sturdy columns supporting the vertical load -- I added approx $3k in structural steel to mine and I am quite certain I no longer need to worry about this issue.

I have been able to pre-finish most of the internal support systems, wiring for lighting, outlets etc.. Plumbing and ventilation systems. It was a lot of fun building all of that out and I must say I expect this to be on hell of a bunker when it is done.

Good luck with your project.
 
#25 ·
Like the others have said, burying a container as they are made is a fast way to bury yourself for good. People have been crushed doing this.

The problem of bracing has to do with the skin strength. The weight of earth pushes on everything and by the time you weld enough bracing on there you might as well had started from scratch. The welded metal bunkers that are purpose made have a far greater skin metal thickness.

From everything I have read, and I thought about trying this years ago, I came to the conclusion that cinder block is the better way to go underground. That the block is far more resistant to corrosion than metal is just another plus.

All of that aside the container is a better idea above ground. You might not want the visibility factor but you can mitigate that by reinforcing a single side and setting it into a hillside and camo the other visible sites. Or you could build berms around the container that don't actually touch the sides but lower the overall visibility. Or if you can find a structurally sound cave you could just side it in.

So above ground is good, below is bad, and there are some options for a hybrid idea.
 
#26 ·
If you don't mind post some pics as you go -- I will start my own thread and do the same. I know it would have saved me a bunch of time to have known a few of the gotchas I have encountered. Things like -- I had finished out quite a bit of the inside before deciding to add the structural steel. For obvious reasons the support steel should be the first thing installed -- I had to relocate a considerable amount of electrical work to accommodate the mid project design change not to mention the unplanned $3K expense of the support materials. Another possible advantage of using a container is that it is conceivably a giant Faraday cage so I will be grounding the container as well as possible and I am putting in place shunts that electrically isolate the facility container in hopes of avoiding the effects of an EMP pulse -- from my reading this is tricky beast and even the experts seem to make educated guesses when trying to protect a facility against EMP I am no experts but common sense tells me that if I can electrically isolate the facility when it is not in use and ground it the contents should survive an EMP event if the facility is in use during the pulse and the shunts are not in place the pulse will most likely fry it anyways -- oh well I am hoping to at least have a chance of making through one in tact. Anyway I am trying to plan for that possibility as well as I can in my simple shade tree mechanic fashion.

I have read a lot of articles concerning building a shelter from a shipping container and honestly I really did not find any that were much use -- everyone had opinions however while a lot of these opinions closely approximate the reality of the matter none of them really offered good advice on how to deal with the various issue and limitation of the shipping container as base platform. IMHO this construction method should work after mitigating several factors -- a culvert type shelter would most certainly be a cheaper route however the spaciousness that the 40' high boy offers is a considerable upgrade as far as internal creature comforts opportunities go.

I whole heartedly agree with those that say just burying a container -- re-enforced or not is a very bad idea. However what I am really doing is building a reinforced concrete bunker that is double reinforced by having a permanent steel form (the Shipping container) inside the concrete bunker.

FYI -- when welding on a Chinese (Most of them are) shipping container beware of the fumes from whatever paint they use on those things -- seems like pretty toxic stuff. On a good note the steel they use in the shipping containers is considerably better than the cheap Chinese made screws I have been using -- does anyone make a decent product anymore? Apparently one of the only good products produced in China are the shipping containers -- but I guess that makes sense as they are for their use to ship useless crap to the US.
 
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