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Old 11-12-2012, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Jon View Post
well...its his reloading equipment and his money, if he wants to beat it up then that's his prerogative.

i guess if i was able to pick up a set of used dies real cheap that i was willing to throw away if they became too out of spec and, could save my expensive dies for the brass stuff, i would give it a try just to see

actually might not be such a bad idea to give that a try, think i will start watching the auction sites for used 7.62x39 dies...if everything does collapse, there is an awful lot of steel cased stuff out there, might as well see what it takes to make the best use out of it. Reloaded steel cases and an out of spec reloader are much better to have than a new reloader and no cases to run through it.

I am not reversing my statement that it its a bad practice for your reloading equipment, but after a night to sleep on things i can see where it would be useful if the circumstances were right.
yeah that hard part with reloading steel is the fact that most of the 7.62 x 39mm is berdan primed, you can either convert or buy the them off Graf & sons, some people say that the wear on your dies is a myth because the steel is rather soft, and the steel doesn't expand too much after being shot so it doesn't need to be resized/trimmed as much, the most i would reload the steel cases is 2-3 times, they start to split after, also reloading steel .223 and pistol cartridges has it's advantages because some of those rounds are boxer primed which is nice and you can get pretty good accuracy out of it, also it may be helpful for some mini 30 owners..just talked to him earlier and he has done 3000 rounds on his dies, no sign of serious wear..some people suggest using carbide dies
Old 11-12-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Jon View Post
I am sorry but i must also doubt this claim...if you were talking about 7.62x39 out of a yugo ak then i would accept it...maybe even .223 out of a romanian sar2...but the cases are lacquered and will gum up domestic 223s (mini 14s and ARs)...they will run decently enough as long as they are kept hot, but as soon as the lacquer, that has melted off of the cases and into & around your chamber, is allowed to cool it will lock up your weapon. I have seen this multiple times on different AR and mini 14 type weapons.

Wolf is a NO-GO at the domestic weapons station.

What weapons have you used wold .223 in?
ive ran most thru a ruger sr556. ive had maybe 1 fte. you are wrong about the laquer. the wolf polyformance is polymer coated not laquered. ive run a couple hundred thru a cheap 11.5" delton with zero problems in it. perhaps research all the dufferent types of wolf ammo. brown bear is a dufferent story. it is indeed lacquer coated and does cause problems.
Old 11-12-2012, 07:07 PM
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I have shot thousands of rounds of Wolf, mostly 5.56, 7.62x39, 9mm, and 9x18..

The coating has NOTHING to do with any issues related to Wolf ammo. The issue is steel will not expand as easily and can allow residue back into the chamber. Brass cased ammo will expand in the chamber and seal it up, that keeps less fouling from getting into the chamber..

Lacquer or polymer will not come off in your chamber when shooting, it depends on how tight your chamber is and how much fouling can get inside..

I am so sick of the silly myths that float around the internet.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:31 PM
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At 25 cents per round, I've bought up a little bit of TulAmmo 223.

Seems 223 pricing has been climbing steadily lately.

It's usually what I shoot at the range and so far, zero problems through my M&P 15 Sport. all fairness, I don't rapid fire and I aways clean the rifle after a day at the range.


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