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Old 05-18-2012, 11:31 PM
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Won't happen again. Also, I'll try and delete some of my redundant comments.
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:39 AM
George Newbill George Newbill is offline
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The professional armored vehicle manufacturers use hardened steel and 3/4 ton pickup trucks. You might try aluminimum armor, 1/3 the weight of steel and 1/3 the strength of steel, so you think same weight for a given level of protection true but 3 times the thickness, stiffer.

Also layers: steel, soft kevlar, aluminimum.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:51 AM
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ar500 plate, expensive but effective.
Old 01-05-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Gent View Post
I've read that a 15 tile box of 12"x12" weighs about 50 lbs. If you made the armor 5 tiles thick and didn't worry about the floor or roof, I'd imagine that it would take about 25 to 35 boxes depending on the vehicle. That would be about 1250 to 1750 before the negligible weight from the duct tape. If you add spray on insulation or epoxy, that adds more weight. Take is as you will.
I think the essential point of this thread - cheap DIY armor with limited use - got lost in trying to make this a practical way to armor an entire vehicle. That's not going to happen. No one should go out and try to build an armored car. It really shouldn't be even a peripheral part of anyone's survival plan. If you need a LAV, you're doing something wrong.

Realistically, you're not gearing up for a battle...you'd be protecting the occupants against stray rounds or the slight chance that someone decides to actually fire a round or two at your BOV.

Stick to armoring the areas that, if they were hit, would most likely result in injury to occupants. That means door panels, the backs of seats and the trunk/tailgate. These areas are relatively easy places to put flat panels and are likely to have a person behind them. There might be no one in the trunk/bed, but it's an easy place to armor and rounds can easily pass through to the passenger compartment.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:32 PM
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The Kevlar matting, which i think someone referred to, will not stop a bullet. I have personally tested that theory. These were used in Iraq a lot, sometimes in buildings, sometimes in helicopters. They are made to stop frag, which they are effective against. I shot a 5.56 and 7.62 through 2 matts layered.
The problem is even if you up armor a car or truck, if you don't use bulletproof glass you might as well not even worry about doing it to begin with. You are still going to have 30-40% exposure, if not more, due to the windows. Now what about the critical components of the vehicle? If your vehicle gets disabled in a "kill zone," you are sitting duck.
Just my 2 cents...for what it is worth.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lobo11 View Post
The problem is even if you up armor a car or truck, if you don't use bulletproof glass you might as well not even worry about doing it to begin with. You are still going to have 30-40% exposure, if not more, due to the windows. Now what about the critical components of the vehicle? If your vehicle gets disabled in a "kill zone," you are sitting duck.
Just my 2 cents...for what it is worth.
Keep the windows rolled up and hope the glass deflects the round enough. Hopefully there's only one round. It doesn't make sense to totally abandon protection just because you can't comprehensively armor the entire vehicle. If you're in a vehicle and get attacked by an organized group of people intent on killing you, chances are they're going to succeed.

Being 20% protected is better than being 0% protected. There's a good chance that an incoming round might be a stray bullet, a random potshot or that the shooter may simply have bad aim. While driving, wear kevlar, a SAPI plate(s) and maybe a helmet and you can increase your odds even more.

Hey, an unarmored vehicle doesn't offer that much protection either. When bullets start flying, do you want to be outside or inside the car? Anything is better than nothing.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:29 AM
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First of all, respectfully, a rolled up window is NOT going to change the direction or speed of a projectile enough to have any real-world effect on whether the bullet hits you or not. If anything, the impact of a projectile on the glass is going to cause it to mushroom (just slightly, not fully) or cause its flight path to become irregular (tumble)...probably increasing the damage it will cause you on impact.
While I will agree it will slow the bullet, getting hit with something moving 2100FPS vs 1100FPS...either way you are getting hit and it is causing damage.
I am not saying it has ZERO effect...just negligible and certainly nothing I would count on in any way whatsoever.

The vehicle with no armor indeed gives you no protection. However, you are light, agile, and fuel efficient. Guys drove around Afghanistan in Toyota Hilux trucks with zero armor for years. Hell, maybe they still do for all I know. They did slap a machine gun on a roll bar though.

Again..just my 2 cents.
Old 01-07-2013, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lobo11 View Post
First of all, respectfully, a rolled up window is NOT going to change the direction or speed of a projectile enough to have any real-world effect on whether the bullet hits you or not. If anything, the impact of a projectile on the glass is going to cause it to mushroom (just slightly, not fully) or cause its flight path to become irregular (tumble)...probably increasing the damage it will cause you on impact.
While I will agree it will slow the bullet, getting hit with something moving 2100FPS vs 1100FPS...either way you are getting hit and it is causing damage.
I am not saying it has ZERO effect...just negligible and certainly nothing I would count on in any way whatsoever.
Of course not. I was just making the point that in most cases, windows are impossible to protect. The most you can do is roll up the window and hope for the best. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do something to the rest of the car.

I think that DIY armor can be minimally beneficial in the doors, trunk, seats, etc. It's not meant for a battle, but for accidental encounters with rounds, or where someone is shooting and you're driving in the opposite direction. I wouldn't install more than 50-75 lbs though, just because it's not that beneficial for the weight.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:37 PM
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there is a guy on ak 47 files who sell body armor pieces and also will build anything for a price. I asked him if he make my drag bag with armor inserts and he could cost around 200.00 and you could lay behind your drag bag to try keep from getting shot. The have a for sale section you can find him there. I also had him willing to make me a bullet proof gillie. Kim
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:40 AM
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Old phone books makes for great armoring for a vehicle, shoot a few phonebooks to check depth and take of the door panels on the inside and stuff it in behind the metal carriage for the panel.
Old 01-13-2013, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korbas View Post
Of course not. I was just making the point that in most cases, windows are impossible to protect. The most you can do is roll up the window and hope for the best. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do something to the rest of the car.

I think that DIY armor can be minimally beneficial in the doors, trunk, seats, etc. It's not meant for a battle, but for accidental encounters with rounds, or where someone is shooting and you're driving in the opposite direction. I wouldn't install more than 50-75 lbs though, just because it's not that beneficial for the weight.
Well if you think about it, most cars and SUV's can easily ride 5 men averaging 200 lbs a piece, that's 1000 lbs. if you know that you're going to be traveling alone then that is extra weight that you can use to haul stuff or armor your vehicle. Just calculate what your vehicle can carry and what you will be carrying and you can figure how much weight you can use for armoring
Old 01-13-2013, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musclecarmania View Post
Old phone books makes for great armoring for a vehicle, shoot a few phonebooks to check depth and take of the door panels on the inside and stuff it in behind the metal carriage for the panel.
No. No they do not. This has been debunked a few hundred times on the internet and gun ranges around america. A phone book won't stop a 22lr.

http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showth...3857631&page=1
a quick google search of "22lr vs phonebook" gave me this link...plus a few hundred others. Even meat brained body builders know a phone book won't stop a measly 22. I have personally shot phone books with my 45acp, and my 10mm. They won't stop much.
Old 01-15-2013, 08:22 AM
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If it were me, I wouldn't put forth the effort trying to penny pinch on homemade armor. I think I would find out where the nearest auction is for military vehicles, old Brink's trucks, or a cheap truck frame to go off of with a custom design.

My dad went to an auction about 15 years ago, and would you know it, he bought a trailer load of lexan sheets for next to nothing!
Old 03-21-2013, 03:42 PM
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I know this thread has went sort of dormant, but maybe look at it from a different angle. You could try fabricating a ballistics grade micarta to contour the fenders and door panels of your vehicle. The only problem is the fabrication process itself which requires quite a lot of compacting pressure. Easy to do on small pieces like knife handles and firearm grips, but when you're talking about covering significantly more real estate, bigger equipment will be needed..but it can be done. Its going to be lighter than steel, and less brittle than tile plates (which will inevitably crumble after the first shots).

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Micart...ls.-a064995561

http://www.norplex-micarta.com/whats...e%20101408.pdf
Old 03-21-2013, 04:04 PM
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realistically i have to agree that if you are not armoring the windows its a moot point to try to armor the whole body of a bov. in my opinion it is best to armor only the doors tail gate and rear quarters. and i believe that with the right combination of paper and plastic you could increase your chances measurably. heck it your that worried about it weld latches above and below the windows and make panels that get clamped on
Old 03-21-2013, 04:10 PM
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I was just looking at it from a weight perspective. Glass would obviously have to be approached differently, but if you secured the means to make a lightweight (comparatively speaking) ballistics grade micarta, I am pretty sure figuring out a solution for the glass would not be that hard.
Old 03-21-2013, 07:56 PM
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Fundamentally, this is the issue.

Old 03-21-2013, 08:11 PM
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I think because of weight issues, you should pick key areas to uparmor.

"tacosepreme" mentioned a company called Trail Worthy Fab on another thread. They specialize in taking humvee rims and modifing it to your lug pattern and then placing run flats in. I think keeping your vehicle rolling out of the situation is more important.
Then just armor around the radiator and vital engine componants.
Also I think it's better to get all the occupants soft armor, plate carriers and ballistic helmets. At least you could take it with you when you exit the vehicle.
Old 03-22-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Auberry View Post
I think myth busters used phone books to armor car doors...............I may be wrong though.
buckshot will shred a phone book. i do it for fun
Old 03-22-2013, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musclecarmania View Post
Old phone books makes for great armoring for a vehicle, shoot a few phonebooks to check depth and take of the door panels on the inside and stuff it in behind the metal carriage for the panel.
dangerous recommendation when you have CLEARLY never tested this. phone books barely stop a sling shot
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