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Anyone know if you can use birch furniture veneer for backing ?
I wasn't sure because you can see the grain has been cut through at an angle so I figure it would split , but I saw a picture of a laminate long bow in traditional bow hunter and it looked like the grain in the backing had been interrupted . Do you have to put the veneer under fiberglass to prevent splitting ? On that note , can fiber glass be used on its own to back a laminate bow , or will it peel off the wood ? I want to buy some maple , mahogany or other hardwood board from my local hardware store and make a laminate , but I'm having issue finding backing material , be it bamboo , rawhide , sinew or linen . Would leather work ? I may know where to get some of that if nothing else . I plan to build a laminate long bow and chase blacktails (deer) with it this bow season , thanks to anyone who can help. |
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Thanks , will any fiberglass work {can buy fiberglass patch kit at hardware store ) or does it need to be a specialised archery product ?
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I've used lightweight fiberglass cloth "tape" as you would find at West Marine or Boats U.S. or anyplace that sells fiberglass supplies. It's just a strip of fiberglass cloth.
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last question , do I use the fiberglass resin and hardener and simply apply to the face of the bow or do I need to use a glue or epoxy instead ?
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Quote:
I would use a clear epoxy rather than fiberglass resin. Epoxy is more flexible than fiberglass resin. Less prone to cracking. I've used 1 hour epoxy from the hardware store to saturate fiberglass cloth on a wood bow and also to seal the wood. I've also used it to saturate oak spearguns to seal them from water intrusion. The kind you buy in syringes at the hardware store is a thicker consistency than the type they use in fiberglass work so mix smaller amounts at a time so it soaks in before it starts to kick off. With any type of epoxy you need to protect it from U.V. light. Spar varnish or some other clear coat that has U.V. protection in it works. Any type of paint also works. |
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