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Inexpensive, but GOOD Recurve Bows?

49K views 36 replies 28 participants last post by  Gazpacho 
#1 ·
I'm shopping around online for a good bow for deer hunting.

I don't want a compound because, well, I'm not a millionaire and those things are darn expensive. I saw a few on cabela's and they're pretty well priced, $100-$150.

Martin, PSE, Bear. Any good choices in the above price range for a first bow?
 
#2 ·
Try E-bay. Understand though that with a recurve bow developing the skills to hunt effectively is going to take much more time and practice. Probably a year of almost daily practice could get you there. With a compound bow you could be there in a week or 2.
Used compound bows with sights and a rest can be bought in your price range.
The brands you listed are good ones Others are Wing and Pearson.
Hunting with a recurve will require an armguard, shooting glove or tab, and something to carry your arrows in. You will probably need a new or at least a spare bowstring too.And a good target to practice.
 
#11 ·
Buck got it right NY, he is telling you straight. :thumb: A recurve is something to master, but only if you a willing to put a lot of time and dedication. Also building up your muscles, reason is the draw weight stays constant with a revurve. Draw back on a deer but have to hold on it for more then a couple minutes and you won't last long with a 50 to 70 pound recurve. The compund will let off at full draw because of the cams, hold a lot longer with less weight even though still a 50 to 70 pund draw weight.

Also Buck is right about getting measured, you need to get that to get a good fit on a bow. Sorta like gettin shoes.

Good luck on this adventure NY keep us informed on how it goes.
 
#8 ·
I have another suggestion before you buy a bow. If there is an archery shop close go and have them help you measure your draw length so that you when you buy a bow it will be something that suits you well. Most archery stores have a guy that can help you and will if they think you are going to make a purchase. If you go the recurve route if your draw length is long a short bow will pinch your fingers and will be hard to shoot. Good luck and enjoy.
 
#10 ·
#24 ·
i like 3 rivers for my archery supplies
Your kidding right been shooting recurve about 35 years started when i was 17 took about two weeks to get it down pat. Tried a compound about 5 years after i started shooting recurve. 6 months of that an i git rid of it. I'll stick to recurve an stick bows they were used for centuries for survival hunting long before sport hunting.
same here can shoot a trad bow better than a compound with all the bells and wistles i cant control the shot its so predictable i cant shoot it
 
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#15 ·
http://www.hudsonvalleysportsman.com/index.php/topic,6733.0.html

I am not a member on that forum, I just read and skim ads but this is a good deal to start with...I am in a sportsmen's club based out of valley cottage, I will keep an ear out for anyone of my guys selling bow equipment and let you know.

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/spo/3180650942.html
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/spo/3176825278.html

just a quick couple off craigslist, keep an eye there. I'd suggest setting up with a compound vs recurve for now like everyone else stated....Regardless of which bow you pick, you have to figure you'll need arrows, broad heads, sight system, quiver, target, and the list will go on...tree stand...
 
#16 ·
Check E-Bay, if you've never used a bow before, a compound will get you going in the shortest timeframe. If you have to got Trad, maybe a longbow first. They are a little more forgiving, so easy to learn. Regardless long or recurve will take many hours of practice.

You could always go the older compound route; they have Bear Whitetail bows from the 80's on E-Bay etc. for cheap. They will still work as good today as they did 30 yrs ago.
 
#17 ·
Go with the recurve. Shoot instinctively, do not use the gap system. Learn to shoot instinctively, find a anchor point in your draw, for me it is my middle finger in the corner of my mouth. This gives me consistency on draw length and lines the string and the bow up with my eye. Concentrate on the target and not the arrow, shoot a bow instinctively is like shooting a basketball or throwing a rock. Repitition and consistency of shooting will allow your mind to make the necessary calculations of distance. After shooting instinctively a while a Quick way to reinforce this is to put tape that glows in the dark on plastic water bottles and spread them across your yard. Do this on nights that are so dark you can't see you hands on the bow. You need to get elevated above bottles, as on a deck, and start shooting at the bottles using practice points of course. If you plan to shoot aluminum arrows, buy a couple different full length arrows around the diameter you want to shoot strip the fletching off, glue the point ferrule in, put in practice point and shoot it. IIRC if too long for the spine of that arrow the arrow will porpoise to the right, if porpoises to the left move up in arrow spine. If it porpoises to the right cut off a 1/2 inch and replace ferrule. do this until the arrow shoots straight or slightly porpoises from one side to the other, and you will have a well tuned arrow when fletched. Get a bow that is not a strain to pull when fully clothed for hunting and you will be able to hold your shot at full draw if needed. ONE WORD OF CAUTION TRADITIONAL BOWHUNTING AND SHOOTING IS ADDICTIVE!
 
#18 ·
Samick sage is a pretty good budget Recurve. See tons of good reviews and it was recommended to me numerous times for my starter bow.

Goes for about $120
Also the Samick Polaris, about $150

At the $200 mark you have the Martin saber a Recurve with a compound metal riser. Just replace the arrow rest asap.
 
#20 ·
I have to chime in here, I shoot everything with arrows, fish, pheasant, squirrel, rabbit, deer, beavers, *****.

I disagree about compound bows as getting you there quicker. They have moving parts and need tuning regularly and cost more. Get yourself a nice recurve to start with and go from there.

I shoot both recurve and compound. The compound is great for deer hunting because you can hold your draw longer easier, at least to start with. But after a season of shooting your muscles will be developed to easily hold a recurve.

Get whatever fits you and you can afford. :thumb:
 
#21 ·
Your story sounds exactly like mine. Compounds are neat but didn't want the expense and maintenance. I picked up a PSE Kudu (discontinued) and have been very pleased. It is probably pretty close to their current Mustang Takedown Recurve.

Accessories are decently cheap. I got the bow and arrows at Cabela's and the other pieces at 3Rivers Archery. I'm not a purist. My arrows are carbon and have the vinyl/rubber fletching (vs. feathers). I'm currently trying a site system that is kind of instinctive but gives you a reference point:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/SRF+Sighting+System+-+Luminescent_i8176X_baseitem.html

Since you mention you plan to deer hunt, make sure you get it with enough draw weight. Some states have minimum requirements to be legal.
 
#23 ·
Your kidding right been shooting recurve about 35 years started when i was 17 took about two weeks to get it down pat. Tried a compound about 5 years after i started shooting recurve. 6 months of that an i git rid of it. I'll stick to recurve an stick bows they were used for centuries for survival hunting long before sport hunting.
 
#32 ·
Not a recurve, but might be worth a look

http://www.woodlandarchery.com/prod12.htm
The link doesn't work, could you re-post please?

Samick Sage

got mine for 120$. very happy with it. its awesome. could sell for much higher
Do you use it with the FastFlight string? They mention at the best recurve bow guide that the tips of the Sage are reinforced (it's in one of the reviews over there, should be easy to find) and so it can accept this string. I was wondering whether this is actually a good combination on this Samick. Same thing is mentioned at 3Rivers archery I think. Also if I may ask, where did you get it for $120? Was it a used bow?

If I remember correctly, and I think I do, this bow cost me a little over $100 in 1969 and was the first BIG buy of my young life, I was 10 years old at the time.
I used an inflation calculator and determined that $100 in 1969 was the equivalent of around $600 nowadays. You must've been one hell of a happy 10 year old :)
 
#26 ·
I've been looking for a takedown to replace my 1978 bear and after reading tons of reviews went with the samick sage. It's a great looking bow, weighs next to nothing, and has spots to mount whatever gizmos you'd want. Can't wait to go fishing with it.
 
#29 ·
I'm shopping around online for a good bow for deer hunting.

I don't want a compound because, well, I'm not a millionaire and those things are darn expensive. I saw a few on cabela's and they're pretty well priced, $100-$150.

Martin, PSE, Bear. Any good choices in the above price range for a first bow?

I wouldnt waste my money on a cheap bow this is one item you do get what you pay for. They will shoot just fine for a few years, then they will go bad on you. What I did was I looked on E-Bay and got a used High Quality recurve that was in mint condition. If I would have bought it new it would have cost me over $500 but I got it for $125 includeing shipping. It didnt have even one scratch on it , and it was in mint perfect condition :thumb:

What I would do is get on E-bay and look for a BoB Lee, Red Wing, or a Black widow. If you take your time and watch you can get a great deal on one of these bows. Best thing is if you take care of it your grandson will still be useing it after your gone :thumb:

Just learn what to look for when buying a used bow and you should be fine.
 
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