Missed the 5-10 year part. I plan on opening and using some. So by repacking I should get at least 5 out of it. Seems like a good deal. Fresh eggs are not much cheaper.
Same lifespan as the prepackaged eggs the food storage companies sell. Many years. Powdered eggs are real stable when packed properly. I'm using up some that have been stored in a hot metal shed since the late '90s and they're still fine. They were packed in #10 cans with O2 absorber.
But check around first. You can almost always beat Honeyville's price if you do a little browsing. A lot of places sell eggs in bulk, as well as other products.
There is an egg processing plant located where I live so I stopped in to speak with the head of the lab and when I mentioned storing whole egg powder, her first question was "what is the moisture content". I said "not sure" so she started spitting out information that only a chemist would understand. Her bottom line answer was that if it is dried down to a lower moisture, packaged in mylar with an OA it would probably store well for 5 years in a cool, dry area. If stored at higher temps maybe 3 years. I think she was being conservative with storage times. When I see her again I will have more specific questions to ask.
My eggs have an upper moisture limit of 4% and we store under deep vacuum.. Food saver machines go down to 18 to 19 inches max.. (reference youtube video) but we use a rotary vane pump to pull the jars down to 27.5.
We also store our food in the basement where summer temps are usually around 65 degrees and winter temps down there are around 45.
I'm expecting 10 years.. I have to wonder if I'm being optimistic?
Not much reading needed, although it does require a little practice to get really good at operating the thing.
I was just pointing out that, as with many other things, there is an older, lower-cost, lower-tech way to analyze content of atmospheric gases that works perfectly well for most purposes.
If you just want a couple of analyses done, though, and know a lab that will oblige, makes sense to pay them to do it with their fancy-schmancy expensive electronics.
I actually found this thread because I was searching, "nitrogen", in preparation for re-sealing some pharmaceuticals.
Right now they are sealed in a glass jar, which was vac sealed after adding an 02 absorber. Zeke convinced me years ago that the vac sealing wasn't really necessary, but I've always done it as a matter of maximizing the absorber.
I've been worried about the humidity in the jars. Could it be too low? Too high? Is a nitrogen flush overkill? Does it help the humidity to seal outdoors, on a cold day?
I have Bentonite, citric acid, and Vit. C powder? Should I make a sachet for the bottom of the jar?
Not to threadjack, but to me, this thread seems to be homing in on the methods for VERY HIGH quality storage for sensitive items, like eggs and pills.
Well, I'm not sure yet how making your own would work until testing gets done. My hypothesis is just that. No proof yet worth counting on.
But Ascorbic Acid O2A's are on the market already.
Perhaps call a vendor and ask if the AA O2A already comes with desiccant properties.
AA takes in O2 and converts it to water. As long as there is something to soak up the water then you close the vulnerability loop. If the AA O2A doesn't come with desiccant ability then that's easy enough to solve by using silica gel packs.
As for the urge to have redundancy, I recommend not letting that urge get in the way of what is proven to work. Simple is good and predictable. Nitrogen flushing is very tricky because it needs precision. And you risk iron based O2A failure if you do. Kind of inserts a loosely similar problem that vacuum does. With an AA O2A you run no risk of that but I'm not sure you get anything good from it either.
But it definitely doesn't hurt to pick a good time and place for your work. Cool dry days/locations for work are always a good idea.
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